Tantalus Range Mountaineering
Local, Remote, Epic Alpine
The Tantalus Range is the most convenient, stacked, beautiful mountaineering destination on the coast of BC. With ample snow and rock routes close to the hut, this area is truly the pinnacle of mountaineering in the Sea to Sky area.
There are 2 areas in the range: Lake Lovely Water, where the Tantalus Hut is located, and the higher alpine area where the Haberl Hut is located.
The climbing around the Tantalus hut is non-glaciated and more scrambling than technical climbing. Glaciers surround the Haberl hut, and all the routes involve snow/ice climbing and more technical rock. We almost exclusively climb out of the Haberl Hut.
The Goods
Length: 1 or more days
Starting point: Squamish, BC.
Summit Elevation: 2678M (8786ft)
Season: June 1 - October 1
Max. Guest to Guide Ratio: 2:1
Style of Climbing: Steep snow and ice
Cost: Contact us
Scheduled Trips
June 25- 27$1645
July 9- 11$1645
July 23 - 25$1645
August 13 - 15$1645
September 3 - 5$1645
Book a Custom Trip
One day trip$1330
1 Climber with Heli
One day trip$1430
2 Climbers with Heli
Multi day tripCustom Pricing
Contact us for custom dates, duration and itineraries
Add-Ons
Itinerary
Day 1: Meet your guide at the Squamish helipad. A 10-minute flight lands us a the Jim Haberl hut. After settling into the hut, crampons go on, and we tackle our first objective.
Day 2 to 5: Climb one or all of the classic peaks in the area. We will fly back to Squamish at the end of the trip, returning around 3 or 4 pm.
Lake Lovely Water + Tantalus Hut Area
The ACC built the Tantalus hut in 1961 as a base for mountaineering in the Tantalus Range. It is located at the outflow end of Lake Lovely Water (elevation 1170m / 3850 feet) in the Tantalus Range in the Coast Mountains, approximately 64 km northwest of Vancouver. This site is located in Tantalus Provincial Park. ! The Tantalus Hut is a two-storey wooden structure with a large kitchen/dining room on the main floor and a separate sleeping loft above with foam mattresses for 20 people. While the Tantalus area offers limited simple hiking opportunities, the scenery at Lake Lovely Water alone is fabulous. In good weather, people enjoy swimming, boating and fishing. There is a wide variety of climbing and scrambling opportunities for various grades. CITEE
Lake Lovely Water Climbing Objectives
Omega Mountain: The closest peak to the hut, a short jaunt through the woods, lead to the morainal slope and finally a summit right with difficulties to low 5th class.
Niobe Mountain: Often connected with its neighbouring peak Pelion. A similar start to omega, but with a quick glaciated section and easier rock to the summit! 3rd class scramble
Alpha Mountain East Ridge 5.8: Arguably the best route in the range. A steep somewhat rough hike leads to East ridge of Alpha Mountain. Climbing up to 5.8 on a good granite ridge!
Alpha Mountain North West Ridge 4th class: Also used as the descent route from the East Ridge. A hike along the east side of lake lovely water take (or canoe) takes us through the alpine to the Serratus/Alpha col. 4th class scrambling
Haberl Hut Area
The Jim Haberl Hut is ideal for first-time Mountaineers or hikers. With the luxuries of the newly constructed hut and various terrain in the Tantalus Range, this trip is suited for the first time mountaineer or experienced mountain climber. Many challenges await just steps from the little-known paradise in Vancouver's back yard and the Sea to Sky corridor.
An exhilarating helicopter ride brings you from sea level to 2000m and the Jim Haberl Hut. Crampons are a must as you step out of the hut and make your way toward the dayʼs objective: Serratus, Alpha, Dione orTantalus. Each offers its own unique challenge: rock, ice, snow and mixed – the Tantalus Range has it all!
Mount Serratus - Crosmiques Arete 5.9
Mount Serratus - West rib
Mount Serratus - West face decent
Mount Dione and Tantalus
These are the crown jewels of the area, side by side peaks forms the impressive wall seen from the highway
Mount Dione SE Face
Mount Tantalus SE spur
Still Have Questions or Concerns?
Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions, concerns or requests on how we can make this the best trip ever!
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Altus mountain guides is a group of motivated professionals dedicated to providing our clients with outstanding quality in the mountains with safe adventurous trips. From our base in Squamish and Whistler BC we provide you access to the most amazing mountain experiences the West Coast has to offer. Our exciting itineraries showcase the Coast Range but reach beyond to the interior ranges of the Selkirkʼs and Purcellʼs and onto the Rockies. We also offer trips internationally from the historic and classic European Alps to the windswept wilds of Patagonia.