Mt Garibaldi North East Face

Just got back from a two day trip up to the Summit of Mt. Garibaldi via the North East face from Brohm Ridge. What a treat to get into the high alpine in OCTOBER! Conditions on Garibaldi where next to perfect for a guided trip to 2670m or 8760ft. Last night on Mt. Garibaldi there was a strong north wind, and at camp this morning at 6:00am it was -8c. Made for a chilly night. The 2140m camp at the end of the moraine that connects to Brohm Ridge, still has running water in the evening.  Having a tent in a stratovolcano dust storm last night was a bonus. Travel on the now rock hard snow that took ok ice screws,  made for fast travel on strong crevasse bridges and railway spike bomber snow pickets.  Crevasses and Burgschrunds are quite the zig sagging maze right now on the NE route.  We enjoyed no wind at 0c on the summit of Mount Garibaldi for a hour with hot coffee and soup. There is a T slot picket with some cord left behind to rappel over the schrund on the way down.  By 300pm the snow-ice only softened up on the top 1cm where there was direct sunlight.  Max temp of +5c at 2140m.  No rock or ice falls observed. With the forecast of cool sunny weather for the next week, it is still a great time to get into the mountains! Play safe.

photos by: Crosby Johnston